Sunday, July 06, 2008

The Federal's pork sandwich




The Federal is my Twain's substitute here in Durham. They do not have wings like Twain's (and few places do have them like Twain's, though the Federal doesn't have them at all) but they do have something I wish Twain's did have: a pork sandwich of ineffable culinary richness and mystery. I go into the Federal and immediately order a Hennepin, which I first drank with Chuck Campbell at the James Joyce (the place that's ignorant of Bloom's day but still has a good beer supply). A Hennepin is brewed at NY state's Ommegang brewery, which also brews Three Philosophers. Hennepin has a creamy head and a light piquant taste - plus 7 per cent alcohol. Anyway, I get one of these and order the pork sandwich. I first noticed the pork sandwich when we went to the Federal with our friend Paul for pork bellies. Since they didn't have pork bellies we had to order something else. I ordered carnitas, which were great; but I noticed Paul's pork sandwich had more pork and more jalapenos and a heap of garlic fries. It was all that was good about carnitas for a buck less - and more of it! Since then I've dedicated myself to quaffing pork sandwiches and swilling pints of Hennepin and other beers, like the French Broad brewery's Kolsch or various red ales.
Of course on our Weight Watchers' plan, I have to leave room for 20 points, just for the pork sandwich and fries. God help me, the beers are three points each, probably 4, but I'm still living in a bit of denial. For most of the day leading up to the Federal, I have to eat as little as possible. I particularly have to cut down on my consumption of Grafton Village 2 year old reserve cheddar - the cheese that changed my life. Now it's impossible to go back, damn the expense. Weight Watchers does insure that I don't consume as much as I'd like though - saving me money.
Still this pork sandwich is not just bar-b-que, not just cooked pork, not just a garnish of jalapenos. It is a symphony, an opera, an excursion to the outer reaches what bread can hold.

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